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VintageWatercooleds.com Technotes :: ATS Technote - Changing the Rear Axle Bushings

ATS Technote: Changing the Rear Axle Bushings

Changing the rear axle bushing.... now why one sane person spend a considerable mount of cash flow to change this part? Simple... One of my bushings has been "loose" for years.
By "loose" I mean, the bolt was partly loosened, and was bent in the shaft of the bushing causing the bushing to pivot and eventually provided my car with a single point of major degradation with each and every bump, hole, and hump I would take on the road, so loose that every time I shifted the weight of the car around from left to right (changing lanes for example) the car would make an audible.. "CLUNK!"

The parts are worth ~ 150$(CDN) (bolt, nuts, bushing assembly (already pressed), 2 washers and a bolt plastic cap prevent the rust for each bushing assembly. like shocks if you change one, get the other changed also.

 

First, leaving the car on the ground... remove the 2 bolts that hold the bushing assembly to the frame of the car
Here we see a close up of the location of the rear bolt on the assembly, the previous bolt is seen as removed already.
Each side of the rear of the car, there are "lift points" this is where I lifted the car (one wheel at a time) up with a 2 ton jack
here we see the jack under the car in position, using 2 wooden pine blocks to gap the reach of the jack and the push point of the frame
NOW... you are NOT jacking the car up 10 feet in the air, if you don't pay attention you WILL break , snap or crack, your brake lines or gas lines, the circle indicates how much I am lifting the car up, in reality you are lifting the body, so that the "U" frame that supports the rear assembly of the car, can lower itself about 5-8 inches.
This picture clearly shows that I only lifted the car enough to be able to reach the side bolt (the one that hold the assembly unto the "U" frame of the car. once your see this bolt and you can slip a wrench socket on it. stop lifting it.

Now you will noticed I use another wrench on the inside of the "U" frame, yep, there is a nut across that bolt, If applicable, remove plastic cap atop it, and install a wrench letting it sit against the "U" frame (why hold it when the steel can work for you instead?) now slip a board that you will have measure between the ground and the bushing plate, why ? because this is the key to spending 10 mins changing this and 2 hours replacing gas/brake lines.

once you have secure the boards in place. I simply use a pipe to apply constant (no yanking or knocking) pressure unto the bolt head... the left side assembly bolt Snapped, the right... came loose.. (and now you know why I buy complete assemblies..)
this picture shows the new assembly re-installed unto it new place, the tightening is simple, remember that vertical piece of wood? yeah that one... use it, reverse method, and tighten the bolt until it get to end of thread. once you get to end of thread stop! or the bolt will snap in two. now align the plate with your hand (it will be hard to move but manageable and slowly have someone drop the car slowly down until your aligned correctly with the frame bolts , secure the assembly, and drop the car to the ground slowly until the assembly is completely secured properly. your car will be straighter in the rear , and tighter in the corners.... soon! front bushings!

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